Journal of Design and Textiles

Characterization and Optimization Techniques for the Extraction of Fibers from Ficus Thonningii

2025-01-03T11:49:45+00:00

The investigation of natural fibers as viable substitutes for synthetic materials has intensified due to environmental and financial considerations. It has been acknowledged that Ficus thonningii is a viable source of natural fibers due to its resistance and capabilities. The current study aimed to extract and characterize F. thonningii fibers from F. thonningii plant found in Ethiopia. The extraction methods used included water and chemical retting with sodium hydroxide. The extraction was optimized by DOE. Mechanical, physical, and chemical properties of the extracted fibers, such as tensile strength, elongation, fiber length and diameter, fiber fineness, moisture content, moisture regain, fiber’s cellulose, hemicellulose, lignin, and ash contents were characterized. Results showed that F. thonningii fibers have comparable fiber strength (39.65cN by chemical extraction and 37.83cN by water extraction), elongation (3.02% by water extraction and 2.6% by chemical extraction), fiber length (101.5mm by both methods), moisture content (10.35% by water extraction and 10.78% by chemical extraction), and moisture regain (11.02% by water extraction and 11.98% by chemical extraction) with jute, sisal, and flax. The chemical composition was found to be 52.35% of cellulose, 19.2% of hemicellulose, 17.2% of lignin, and 1.2% of ash for water extraction and 63.57% of cellulose, 16.1% of hemicellulose, 12.1% of lignin, and 0.83% of ash for chemical extraction. This proves that F. thonningii plant found in Ethiopia is a source of coarse fibers, thus, can be utilized for technical textiles application.

Dissenting Art- Political Cartoons of Anwar Ali (1922-2004)

2025-01-03T11:50:46+00:00

Anwar Ali began his career as a cartoonist with Dawn, a publication based in New Delhi. He joined Pakistan Times in Lahore as a staff cartoonist on February 4, 1947, and served until 1980. Anwar Ali’s cartoons carried strong political critique and social satire on both national and international issues of his time. Throughout his artistic career, he produced imagery highlighting the hypocritical attitude of the ruling class toward ordinary people of the newly-established Pakistan. Later, he created a pocket cartoon character Nanna, which served as a satirical portraiture of society. This paper examines the role and impact of Anwar Ali’s cartoons, focusing on their political and social critique and their contribution to the discourse of his time.

Maternity Wear Preferences, Problems, and Expectations of Pregnant Women of Pakistan

2025-01-03T11:51:37+00:00

Pregnant women tend to experience fast, non-linear anthropometric changes, especially in their chests, abdomen, and hips during the periods following gestation. Research has shown that physical changes get more prominent in the 2^nd and 3^rd trimester of pregnancy. However, the present Pakistani apparel market does not cater to the clothing needs of pregnant women who are compelled to choose plus-size garments to cater and camouflage their body changes. Interviews were conducted to understand and design the maternity garment requirements, problems, preferences, and expectations of Pakistani pregnant women. To obtain the desired in-depth information, open-ended questions were asked. The information collected was analyzed through qualitative analysis and themes were generated. The results reflected preference towards loose-fitted, breathable, and highly absorbent single layered garments which could cover their body silhouettes. The pregnant women disapproved highly embellished, fitted, and multilayered synthetic-based garments. However, they desired to wear stylish and innovative outfits, designed within the boundary of cultural and religious norms.

Prototype Design and Amenities Clinic Development for Transgender Community

2025-01-03T11:58:09+00:00

The current study aimed to survey the health challenges and concerns faced by transgender community and gender-diverse individuals in Pakistan. The term ‘transgender’ refers to a marginalized group of people often denied adequate healthcare facilities due to social stigma and discrimination. Some of these health concerns may occur due to an exposure to gender minority stress. Gender minority stress is related to transgenders seeking precautionary healthcare less often than other people do. By employing a participatory design approach including focus groups and co-design workshops with transgenders and gender-diverse (TGD) community members, this study attempted to identify their specific health needs. In response to these challenges, the project proposed a comprehensive healthcare solution that includes both a specialized healthcare facility and a mobile app. This app would allow transgenders to access health forums, consult with doctors, receive tailored wellness advice, and schedule appointments, making healthcare more accessible and user-friendly for this vulnerable population. This combination of physical and digital healthcare support is designed to improve the overall health and well-being of transgenders in Pakistan.

Development of Green/Skin-friendly Textiles by Minimizing Formaldehyde Content in Pigment Printing

2025-01-03T12:00:31+00:00

This study aims to reduce the content of formaldehyde in pigment printed cotton fabric with deep shades. A hand screen printing method was applied using various curing temperatures and concentrations of urea for preparation of skin-friendly products. The woven, bleached fabrics were printed following a precise process of screen printing and these samples were dried and curried for proper fixation. Standard test procedures were followed to assess the content of H-CHO (formaldehyde) during washing and rubbing. H-CHO contents were instantly reduced by increasing the temperature of the printed fabric during curing. The best outcome for wet and dry fastness of rubbing was achieved at 160˚C, while a little enhanced rubbing outcomes were observed when the concentration of urea was 2% at a fixation temperature of 150˚C. The final product may be effectively used for clothing purpose, meeting the OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 standard for low formaldehyde content.

Student Entrepreneurship - The Way Forward for Textile Design Students in Pakistan

2025-01-03T12:01:28+00:00

This paper aims to highlight student entrepreneurship as an emerging phenomenon which stimulates economic growth by shaping young students into entrepreneurs. The need to realise important avenues and challenges associated with the practice of student entrepreneurship is explored as an explicit research question in this study. The paper specifically assesses the scope of student entrepreneurship in the discipline of textile design, stressing the need to bridge the gap between academia and industry. The government and its higher education policies urge entrepreneurship to be taught only as a theoretical subject in higher education institutes (HEIs). However, to enable students to make innovative uses of resources and to explore and pursue career or business opportunities as entrepreneurs is a requisite lacking in such programmes. Hence, the current study explores if the subject of ‘textile design’ can provide lucrative practice-based learning opportunities to students, who can become entrepreneurs by creating profitable business organizations during their student years. For this purpose, fresh graduates with a degree in textile design were selected as sample. The findings indicated that students are highly motivated to engage in business pursuits. Furthermore, the study also identified barriers hampering their entrepreneurial engagement. The changing dynamics of academia and industry relationships in this regard were also examined. Qualitative research design was used and data was collected via interviews and reflective practice method. Moreover, the existing entrepreneurship literature was reviewed to contextualize textile design education vis-à-vis its perceived and proposed roles for student entrepreneurship. The study concludes that the opportunities to develop entrepreneurial skills during student years should be considered crucial in order to establish a community capable of functioning independently and successfully in a knowledge-based economy.